Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, Unesco recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a select list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it enters a international community of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "is a testament to its profound food heritage and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this historic city arrives as little surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has always shaped its soul: an profound devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a continued dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their children are unwilling to take up the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will encourage more people worldwide to discover these tales and travel to the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
