‘Every Culinary Artist Ought to Learn Here’: Unassuming Turkish Eatery Earns Fourth on Roll of London’s Top Dining Destinations.

Whenever assembling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, situated high among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

The little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. The recognition has made the family utterly surprised.

“I’m completely surprised,” states the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that led to their humble restaurant securing such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all about the fare, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender consistency.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in less syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, toastier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate outside its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic honour.

Carol Fowler
Carol Fowler

Elara is a gaming journalist and esports analyst with over a decade of experience covering industry trends and competitive gaming events.